Salt air shapes a coastal house. It eats window frames, hinges and painted steel, and it keeps north facing walls damp long after the rain stops. Run a hand along the inside of an exterior wall and look at the corners behind furniture. Soft plaster and a smell of wet stone mean work. Ask what heating cost last winter, not last summer.
The town runs on two calendars. From October to April the bakery opens at seven, the streets empty by nine, and the pharmacy shuts for lunch. In July the same street holds a queue. The morning fish market is the anchor of the day for people who live here year round.
Markets follow the catch and the season, not a website. Fish lands in the early morning, greens come from small plots inland, and prices are cash. Vendors know who lives here and who is visiting for a fortnight, and they will tell you which weeks are quiet.
Before you commit, check the boring things. Look at the flood risk map for the address and get an insurance quote for that exact plot. Ask about drainage on the lane, the age of the roof, and whether water comes from the mains or a well. Find the grocery that stays open in February. Talk to a neighbour about plans for the empty lot next door.
Visit in the off season before signing anything. A February week tells you about wind, damp and transport, and how the place feels once the visitors are gone.
